Bad sushi is not like bad pizza or bad sex (still pretty good), bad sushi is painful. Sure, some people will buy their sushi at a convenience store but some people eat only to survive. The rest of us eat to live (Unless it’s 2:30 AM and i’m wasted, in which case convenience store pizza subs are just fine thanks.)
In theory, sushi should not be that hard to make. Most of the ingredients are raw so the element of timing is not really a factor. You only need to worry about freshness and ingredient amounts. Making sushi should be much like a rolling a salad roll.
But it’s not. Making good sushi is damn hard, even getting the rice right takes years of practice and selecting, cleaning and slicing the fish properly is a time-honoured art. Just keeping the knife in working order requires hours of care each week. Good sushi takes patience, diligence, attention and love.
And the sushi and sashimi at Kozo Cafe on Second Ave in downtown Squamish is absolutely exquisite. Kozo owner Hiro Kataura rolls the best sushi in Squamish. And that is no light claim— Squampton is a sushi hotspot known for putting quality fish on the plate.
Hiro trained for years at Whistler’s Sushi Village but it isn’t just his technique that works at Kozo. It’s his youthful willingness to innovate and craft new dishes, as well as his commitment to tradition, freshness, quality and hard work.
Only open since July 1, Kozo’s decorative motifs are very minimalist but the beauty is on the plate. Hiro is just getting Kozo going– they don’t have a full kitchen (no deep fryer on site, for all y’all looking for a healthier lunch option) but even though he’s working long, hard days to realize a dream Hiro refuses to cut corners or pre-roll sushi for use later on (you’d be surprised how many places do that…)
Kozo doesn’t have a liquor license right now but they do sell espresso to go with miso, edamame, spinach gomae, and the best sushi in town.
“I’m working on getting a liquor license to bring in some BC wines and Sake from Granville Island,” Hiro says. “Also plans for more hot food like noodle, but for right now its pretty much only sushi and coffee.”
No it isn’t. It’s fantastic sushi and gourmet coffee and it’s downtown at 38163 Second Ave (right beside Rock On.)